Putting the dusty desert of Las Vegas and Nevada behind us, we embark on a mission north. Discovering aliens close to Area 51, evil looking thunderstorms in the middle of nowhere, and finding the true meaning of ice. South Lake Tahoe and Kirkwood is as classic american skiing it can get and we somewhat get the best of it.
You can find part 1 here.
Text & photo: Johan Ståhlberg
North bound - From desert to the South Lake Tahoe mountains
We enter highway 95 and head towards northwest. Not the spawn of Kanye West and Kim Kardashian, but the direction, just to be transparent. It is early morning and most of the landscape lay still in darkness. We replaced our old Denny’s oversized coffee mugs with a pair of new ones. The days in Las Vegas have been hectic. Both ski-wise and neon-signs-at-night-wise. Tired, we see the world's most bright place getting darker and darker in our rear view mirror, and above our headlights is the highway long and never ending.
About 150 kilometers later, we stumble on to a very special and unexpected place of American oddity. In Amargosa you will find the Area 51 Alien Center, on the right hand side.
A must visit for anyone who has watched movies, TV or some sort of sci-fi culture. Heck, by only being alive this is worth a stop. In the middle of nowhere, with a population of only 1400 people, there is a fairly large shop just dedicated to Aliens, the close by Area 51, and other quirkyness. Simply amazing. It is hard to not to laugh going inside and see all the souvenirs and other memorabilia related to aliens and Area 51. My bank account is not laughing walking out, but we sure do. Across the parking lot you have the world's largest firecracker. God bless America.
Right before Goldfield we turn sharply left onto road 226. To be transparent again, I do turn left onto 226 for the scenic road.
Andreas has entered a ski-inflicted coma and has no clue regarding the itinerary changes I made an executive decision about. Suddenly it is Andreas, our Volvo and I, in the middle of nowhere. The landscapes change into a more wild one, and for every new road sign, we see additional bullet holes. As an evil looking thunderstorm is creeping up on us, we start climbing up over a smaller mountain pass, and we see snow. All drowsiness and traces of jetlag is out the window. Snow is like an adrenaline shot, alá Pulp Fiction, straight in the heart, for skiers. Passing the small town of Oasis we shortly enter California for a quick visit before the road takes us back into Nevada. This is now remote rural land, with small towns and rarely any gas to find. Nothing but pitch blackness as the sun has set and what seems like the occasional meth-lab trailer.
About 9 hours after leaving Las Vegas we roll into South Lake Tahoe. This is what a post-card worthy ski resort looks like. The timbered houses, ski shops- and rentals, and everything else you imagine when doing a Google Image search of “ski resort”. This is also California, or at least most of the town is as the state border runs through it. Meaning that half the town is clustered with casinos and the other half with weed shops. I don’t judge, but my impression is that they are happier and red-eyed in California than in Nevada. Parking at the Tahoe Lakeshore Lodge & Spa, fully loaded on Taco Bell, and we install ourselves in a nice 7 bedroom suite with a lake view. They really like the rustic dark-tinted wood beams here. Excited for what tomorrow will bring, we fall asleep on soft pillows on each end of the large house.
The excitement of two skiers is brutally crushed by the rain hitting the large windows facing the great lake. It is just not a slight rain, it is pouring down like an autumn storm, in January. And they say climate change is not real… We find our way to the Heavenly Gondola for our first ride up. The whole town is hauntingly gray, wet and green. This feels more like a miserable October than a happy January. Gore-Tex and shell layers in all honor, but an umbrella would have been a better tool here. As the Gondola ascends from its base station, we can’t ignore the lack of fresh snow, or snow of any kind for that matter. Reaching the gondola’s mountain station we find a fairly large system of slopes and lifts, spreading over into the Nevada side. It is easy to see why the resort is such a popular and legendary one. By ascending that first large ridge with the gondola a vast area of options opens up before your boots.
Hope is the last thing that is leaving you, they say. But after a few hours of familiarizing ourselves with the Lake Tahoe ski resort, we toss in both the wet towel and the skis. There is a lot of fun to find and do here, but as the rain keeps pouring down, we decide to explore the cozy town instead. Entering the doors to one of the local breweries we indulge in some liquid comfort.
By the look of the rest of the crowd, we are not alone drowning our sorrows in more wetness. Striking up a conversation with our table neighbours, apparently this has been a very bad January, all over it seems. We are being told that reports from Alaska, surrounding states, and Europe as well, are seeing a very bad season so far. Only Japan tends to have an abundance of the white gold. After hanging every layer we had on us to dry for the next day, we end the day with an old school 80s action movie and takeout food.
Kirkwood bound
The American weather goods really don’t like Swedes, it seems. As we are heading almost straight south from South Lake Tahoe towards Kirkwood, the rain keeps hitting the windshield of our beloved Volvo. We exit the 88, heading to 89, and laughingly pass the checkpoint for snowchains, something we definitely won't need today. It might be the smaller and more compact resort, but Kirkwood seems, at the moment at least, to be more popular than South Lake Tahoe. They say there is more and better snow conditions here usually, as it has a higher base altitude of 2377 meters above sea level, compared to South Lake Tahoe’s 2029. With its 15 lifts and 86 slopes, it is a fairly large resort.
Kirkwood is operating on one side of a large bowl with some great opportunities for off-piste skiing, something the Freeride World Tour has capitalized on during several occasions. As our luck continues, a good chunk of the lifts and slopes are closed due to the bad weather and winds. The upper ridge that you can traverse at any direction you feel for the moment, is mostly closed and unreachable. Even while the snow contains a lot of water, it is in its incorrect liquid form. It is easy to spot the opportunities for fun skiing here, with lots of easy access forests to ski, as well as nice runs from the steeper parts of the top ridge.
After another wet day and soaking clothes, we are being told not to lose hope. The friendly man at the restaurant counter is a piece of artwork himself. A colorful mix of cowboy and rastafari, a view seldom seen before. With a strong hint of sweet smoke fragrance, he tells us better weather is on the horizon. Something that in theory sounds good, but it means colder weather. Meaning every slope here and in South Lake Tahoe is better experienced on ice skates.
We thank the man for the intel, and head back towards our new hotel room. Checking in at the Hotel Azure we face joy and slight horror. The joy of a very convenient hot tub just outside our room. The horror from the fact that the hotel exterior looks like any exterior from every true crime tv-show ever made. But as always, the good conquers the bad, and we do not only survive, but thrive. A few cold ones in said hot tub while the thunder rumbles just over the lake is a powerful view. The morning after is, as promised by the human art work, showing us some blue skies and sun. Before heading up to the mountain we treat ourselves with a classic breakfast consisting of burritos, scrambled eggs, and tacos at the neighboring Elements restaurant.
Back in Tahoe business
Heading up the gondola in South Lake Tahoe once again, the prospecting views look much better than before. Mostly as we can now see the actual mountain and the beautiful lake behind us. The snow conditions are as feared, a solid block of ice. But now we can see the true beauty of Heavenly ski resort, as it is called. The resort peak(s), of 3068 meters above sea level, are not open due to still strong winds. We do find some areas of not completely frozen ice, but the golden white powder is not to be found. I believe this is the strength of a resort like Heavenly. Even while the conditions leave much to the imagination, you can still have fun.
After exploring the California side, we jump on a ski-bus and head for the Nevada one. The path between is usually open by slopes and lifts, but the wind is causing much to be stationary. The Nevada side is perhaps a tad more family friendly and less steep. At least for the slopes that are open during our visit. Instead of a big beautiful lake, we can view the desert brown flat lands towards Carson City.
The sun is shining and we can enjoy some fast and big turns in the sparsely populated slopes. Life in South Lake Tahoe is pretty good when the water has its correct solid form.
Before leaving the area and heading west to San Francisco, we have one last day in Kirkwood. While reminiscing of the actually quite nice day we had, our prayers are heard. The big man upstairs must be having latency issues, but now it starts snowing, a lot. Big beautiful snowflakes are dancing down in the light of our all-sausage-pool-party. Entering the Kirkwood parking lot very early the next morning we find out more people have had the same idea. As we had pre-booked our parking, which is a must during high season, we can drive all the way to the slope with smug smiles on our faces.
There is still not much open in Kirkwood, as the wind is still a bit strong. But suddenly are all these little lines in the woods, below cliffs and easy-access fields are very much ski-able.
As the foundation is still solid ice, any large drops will not be done today without leaving your kneecaps in your landing. But, who needs that when you have deep powder? 30 centimeters of white gold have lovingly hugged the mountain overnight. We keep doing laps using the Cornice Express (6) up and then skiers left to Sentinel bowl. Here we keep hiking powder turns and fun runs down the various lines continuing down in the forest.
To be transparent again, Andreas is hiking while I take the pictures. A joyful activity we keep doing for the most of the day. Another great playground is The Wall (10) lift up, take skiers left, and find any way down to the Wagon Wheel Bowl as you find fancy. Start with a cliff of various heights and then enjoy the rollercoaster all the way down The Drain.
It is with sad faces we leave Kirkwood and head for one last dinner at the Elements restaurant again. Apparently there will be even more snow over the night. But the s(n)how must go on, and we need to head for San Francisco and Highway 1 down, continuing down to Los Angeles.
Factbox South Lake Tahoe
Eat
South Lake Brewing Co offers a wide range of beer, and pretzels, among other food. Great way to meet some locals and get some insight on off-piste runs.
Elements restaurant offers both good breakfast and dinner. A cozy local place mixing Mexican food with American food.
Stay
Hotel Azure is a bit on the edge of town, but offers a convenient hot tub and swimming pool to relax in after a day on the slopes. A more traditional stay with no kitchen.
Tahoe Lakeshore Lodge & Spa is a traditional ski resort kind of stay. Dark wooden beams, the smell of wood, and a large balcony viewing the great lake. What more can you ask for?
Do
Take a stroll around town and enjoy the atmosphere. If you feel lucky, walk over to the Nevada side of town and head for a casino.
To get a real nature experience jump on a snowsled tour and enjoy the vast landscape South Lake Tahoe has to offer.
The view over the lake from the mountain is just stunning. Make sure you take the time and savor it.
